I grew up in northern California. Sacramento to be precise & though it was not directly on the beach, I went there as often as I could. I remember taking the trip down to southern Cali for the first time. We had a great family trip all planned out. My mom was all about the family so she had a bunch of activities scheduled for us as we drove down the coast. It was really nice. I think it may have been my favorite vacation as a child. My brother & I had to ride in the back of our classic VW bug with our half sister. It was not air conditioned so we relied on 4 – 60 AC. You know the kind you get when you roll the 4 windows down & go 60 miles per hour… It was not too bad actually. we had some board games & other family activities for the family to do while we were driving. Thanks to my mom, we also had a lot of stuff to do off the highway.

I saw & learned about so many cool things that trip. I thoroughly enjoyed the entire thing but my mom made one mistake on that trip which she was totally unaware of at the time. She planned a lesson for the family with a surfer. That is right my mother got me my first taste of the surf & I never turned back. My infatuation started that very day & it was only 3 days in to a 2 week trip down & up the coastline of California. My parents began to realize they may have a problem when they had their lesson & were back on the beach watching for hours while I took wave after wave trying to get the hang of it. Eventually my brother & sister were also up on the beach with my parents watching me struggle. They probably enjoyed it a lot that first day for a while but it came to a point where they literally had to come pull me out of the water to get me to stop for the night.

From that day forward it was all that I wanted to do. And now with technology constantly changing I want my smart phone, twitter and a surf board. I can stay up to date with friends all over the world, Chu in Africa and Faye Kotsis in Australia. Now my parents take me to the beach and they’ll spend the next 10 days or so trying their best to keep me out of the water by bribing me with my smart phone. My mom had planned a whole trip worth of activities & she did not intend to let me miss out on any of them. I did my best to enjoy time with my family but my mind seemed to constantly drift to the ocean. To the surf to be more precise. Don’t get me wrong, I did all of my family activities but the whole trip I worked surfing in everyday.

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